chasing chalk

This is Richie Vass (Middle) and KidMac (Right). It was so good to have two of my best mates around while the comp was on. We had a couple Sunset beers after the final then Jamie threw a crazy party at his house later that night.

Photo: Carey

It might be true that no one remembers second let alone third. But i wont for get how much fun i had in this event. 5 heats at pumping pipe with only 3 other guys in the water was like a dream!

Photo: Tim Jones I got more floggings than i did barrels today. Luckily i did enough to keep getting through. Semis tmrw, hopefully backdoors on!

Photo: Tim Jones       Just got back to hawaii yesterday and this is what i was greeted with! unfortunately the first rounds of the Pipe comp were on so i didn’t get too surf. Paddled out this morning at dark and got a couple fun backdoor ones though.

South of Santa Cruz

A little local knowledge goes a long way in the world of surf travel. Dan ross and i were about to paddle out at a three foot onshore point break in Santa Cruz till a local told us to head down the coast. We found this an hour away!

Photo: Jason Murray

This was the other pit i got. Its so bumpy inside the barrel at jaws, it makes it really hard to keep your rail in and hold a line . Kind of like skiiing down a really bumpy  ski run, you know when your going really fast then you try go from one rail to the other, hit a bump and you end up cart wheeling down to the chair lift.

All Shots by Tim Bonython

Hippo and i partied in hollywood for three nights before this swell! not the best preparation for Jaws. Luckily it wasn’t a huge day, i dont think i could have dealt with it if it was much bigger haha There were still some really fun barrels though. 

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Been back to back massive swells on the North shore this Year. This is the board i rode 2 days ago at a semi secret off shore reef. Its a 10′2 biggest board ive ever ridden and i still would of liked an extra foot on it! still waiting on some shots of this day too post.

Photo: Chris Bryan

This is Waimea early this morning it was massive! we went to a semi secret off shore reef down the coast from here. It was like 20 foot Cloud Break! ill get some shots over the next day or so!