chasing chalk

I just spent the last two weeks on the Gold Coast. WCT surfer Luke Munro has got the goldie wired from the best night clubs to the best restaurants and exactly were to get the best waves. This was Wed morning 4-5 foot barrels out south Straddbroke.

I’ve been shooting photo’s with Billy Morris for the last 10 years. He’s always ripping into me about never doing airs. Im terrible at doing airs but i don’t let billy know that. I always just use the excuse that i don’t want too snap my boards hahah. Any way billy was ripping into me again yesterday so i bet him $20 id land one. I paddled out at D’bah and i snapped my board clean in half very first wave.

You can do more turns on one wave out snapper than you can in a week of surfing in sydney!

This is the wave that won me the Biggest Slab award last night. Click here for the full sequence http://chasingchalk.com/2009/06/26/biggest-barrel-of-my-life/

Photo : Chris Bryan
Be tough to find 2 better blokes to be onstage with! Im nursing a massive hangover but celebration hangovers are always way easier too deal with.
Laurie Towner – Biggest Wave $20,000
Doug Young – Biggest Paddle In $5000
Me – Biggest Slab $5000 yeeeeeeeeeeeeew!

This is Richie Vass (Middle) and KidMac (Right). It was so good to have two of my best mates around while the comp was on. We had a couple Sunset beers after the final then Jamie threw a crazy party at his house later that night.

Photo: Carey

It might be true that no one remembers second let alone third. But i wont for get how much fun i had in this event. 5 heats at pumping pipe with only 3 other guys in the water was like a dream!

Photo: Tim Jones I got more floggings than i did barrels today. Luckily i did enough to keep getting through. Semis tmrw, hopefully backdoors on!

Photo: Tim Jones       Just got back to hawaii yesterday and this is what i was greeted with! unfortunately the first rounds of the Pipe comp were on so i didn’t get too surf. Paddled out this morning at dark and got a couple fun backdoor ones though.

South of Santa Cruz