Six till 6
- I got to ours first light not expecting much but when i pulled up it was solid 6 ft n firing! I was so excited just thinking this is going to be best eva’s got out there as quick as i could, just hypen out like some sort of crack addict grasshopper. i swung on the first wave of a set nose dived snapped my board and got dragged along the rocks. it took me an hour to swim in fin up a new stick n get back out there. i was freaking thinking it was going to turn to shit with the high tide, and i had just missed the best of it. little did i know i had only missed the first of 12 hours of crazy barrels, hectic wipe outs and the demise of the tow-cowboy species…………….. stay tuned………
