Photo: Tim Bonython

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It was so inconsistent this day. It wasn’t my turn when this one came through but i figured the barrel is so round out here that  there would be plenty of room for two of us. It was all good when i pulled in but it was pretty tricky trying to make it out. check out my view here.

I was thinking here that i was way too deep. But thats exactly the feeling you need to have coming into this wave.

So much water draws of the reef that the wave actually stands still for a second. So for a second you think there’s no way im going to make it. Then the wave just stands still while your still flying through it.

I couldn’t pick weather to go high or low to get around chad here. He had no idea i was there and was stalling get into the barrel and i was going a hundred miles an hour trying to get out.

I picked the low road.

Unfortunately so did he. i jumped off my board right after this shot. i ended up flying straight over he’s head and going underneath him.

I came up sweet then i turned around and saw this thing coming straight for me! It doesn’t look real big through the fish eye lens but if you compare it to the jetski on the right it gives you some perspective to how smashed i am about too get hahaha