Let me show you why this was the scariest wave i have ridden so far. (Seq: Ted Grambeau)

People often ask me why i would surf such a dangerous wave. This is why (above). From the channel cyclops is one of the most  majestic looking waves i have ever seen. When your in the channel and crazy barrels like this are coming through the danger’s just don’t register. Cyclops is like some kind of stunning female vampire. So beautiful to look at, impossible to stay away from and all she wants to do is draw BLOOD! Even at this stage the dangers don’t register. All im thinking is get me in this massive barrel. 

Its about here i see her fangs

This is trent Mitchell’s shot of cyclops showing here true colors. That reef is what I’m staring at in the above photo. The water out at cyclops is so clear that as your droping down the wave you can see the razor blade barnacles on the reef below you.

hahah Above: The definition of “scared stiff”

At this stage there must have only been millimeters between my boards fins and the reef below. It was only about 5 feet from the nose of my board to the dry reef that you can see Trent’s shot above. Look in the top left hand corner of this shot it looks like the lip is slightly crumbling. I remember for a split second thinking F#$K this things not going to barrel its going to crumble and drive me into the reef!

Then the lip threw out and the wave pushed up over the reef. I was just wide enough that i didn’t hit the dry ledge where the waves lip is breaking onto.

I managed to escape the fangs of the blood thirsty cyclops only to turn around and stupidly try to do it again.

This time i wasn’t so lucky!

Check out more of Ted Grambeau’s amazing photography at  www.tedgrambeau.com