Biggest Barrel Of My Life!!!
Click below for the full sequence
I had been out for 6 hours before I got this wave. It had been really slow all day and I hadn’t had any good ones yet. Then this mountain came roaring out from the horizon I got tingles (goose bumps) all over as soon as I saw it. I looked up at Hippo (Ryan Hipwood) who was on the jet ski and he didn’t even smile he just said “this things huge.”
It actually wasn’t my turn when this wave came. It was Mitch Rawlin’s go. He’s the craziest lid rider i’ve ever surfed with. He’s ridden the biggest waves at this break I have ever seen. His partner started towing him in. They took a more straight on line into the wave coming from directly behind to avoid the bumps you hit if you come across from the left.
I didn’t really even think, I just yelled out to Hippo go go! I’ll go behind him! Hippo just took off. We were coming into the wave from left to right and Rawlin’s and his driver were coming straight in behind the wave. It put me on the inside and i thought I would just try and pull into the barrel behind Mitch and we’d both get barreled and make it out. Ive done this before a couple of times but on way smaller waves. Hippo was yelling out to them go go go!
Luckily for me, Mitch didn’t end up going. Afterwards he said that he wasn’t in a good position so he just let me go (owe you one!). The wave sucked so hard off the reef that I don’t think that we both could of ridden different lines without colliding. In this shot i’ve got the full wing span going, just trying not to get sucked up the face and into that lip above my head.
It was really hard to read the wave at this point. Once a wave gets over 1o – 12ft, you can’t really see the top of the wave in you peripheral vision. You have have to really turn your head and look up to be able to see what’s going to happen next. I was way too scared of falling to turn and look up at the top of the wave here. There was still so much water sucking off the reef. I just kept my eyes right in front of me and hoped the corner of the barrel wasn’t about to lip me in the head.
Luckily it didn’t! I think it was about here that I could here the boys screaming in the channel.
Big barrels feel like they are alive. They suck all the air inside. Thats what surfers mean when they say they felt the wave take a breath.
This is the moment that you just don’t want to end you feel like your surrounded by the whole ocean. All the hard work is done. The air has no where left to go and just gets spat out into the channel, taking you with it. This is the feeling that keeps coming back over and over and over again.
That all happened in about 10 or 15 sec!
justen
nutz! bbal
Matt Baird
that wave really is thick and chunky… puts all of us mere surfing mortals into perspective!
Television Spy
How did you not wipe out on that one???
Jason Jewry
That is purely scary. To read your comments as well is just great. Good luck with your pursuits.
Jason
Ben Short
thats epic! good work mark you crazy man!
lance strongarm
nice shorey,marky mark.
but how were the big ones breaking out the back that day? huh? …yeah yeah;sore back,didn’t have right board etc. blah blah…whatever buddy
next time it’s big i’m calling a real mountaineer,like fully loaded guy on tv
so take you,your waveski and your gay cowboys and giddy up back to bruno country
man,if there’s one thing i cant stand it’s gutless nevergunnaonedays updating their twitter profiles
see you at neilson park next time its huge…dude.
ken isaacs
wholllllllllly firetruck. that is art, seriously fuct up water…i cant speak other to say you lucky and skilful SOB. GREAT SHIT!!! Respect!!!!! Ken surfin, Typhoon breaks Koichi Japan.
Anthony Zanos
I’m a regional radio announcer who is lucky enough to live right on the beach. It’s 6.54am … I’m in the middle of my brekky shift, just finished doing a phone cross with the local Coastal Patrol (no waves for when I knock off – again) … and then I see this awesome picture in the daily newspaper. It points me to your website and … wham bam – thank you mam! Talk about a wake-up call. How hard must your heart be pumping? And what do you do for a rush after that?!?
I guess you do everything possible to put yourself in that situation again. Good luck – you might need it!
Anthony Zanos
Breakfast Radio Announcer
2RE
(Mid-North Coast, NSW, Australia)
Willy
You’ve nailed it, congrats.
richard clark
Awsome man, just awsome!! youre the man
ad
man alive – how amazing is that
how i wish
thanks for the ride and the photos – just hope there is a video
made my day
andrew
Merc
Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeew!!!!!!!!
David McCombe
Nine Network Australia here.
So, have you got video?
Let us know!
David Morrison-Evans
As one who stated surfing 50yrs ago in South Australia and only had 5-6 foot waves to ride on local beaches, a ride like the one you have just completed is mind boggling. Congratulations and well done.
Tony
True Champion, yes Marky!
Geoff
Nice 1. You dudes have huge King Kong balls. All the best.
JW
Ya shoulda been here yesterday!
Ross McGuire
That is literally one of the coolest things that I have seen in my life. Are they both up around the ear lobes
Col Tasker
Not even 30 years ago in my 20′s would I have tackled a monster like that, but good on ya!
Al
Grommet: Man, it jacks up. You drop down into the pit. lt’s 30 feet straight down…..and your balls, man, your balls are about this big. And the whole thing’s fuckin’ roaring. Pushing you forward, like you’re on a freight train or something.
Roach: and if you lose it, the fish’ll be picking you out ofthe coral.
Tyler: Big-wave riding’s for macho assholes with a death wish.
Roach: No, it’s not. lt’s the ultimate rush. There’s nothing that comes close to it. Not even sex.
Kid Mac
Get off the Shoulder Chalk…
brookexm
Epic bro – Just be careful going through customs at LAX, those nads of yours will set off the metal detectors FOR SURE.
Gar
Sitting in an office with no windows here in Sydney and this just made my day. Incredible the difference your comments made!!!
Andrew Reid
Thats awesome! I,m not a surfer but when I saw the photo in the paper I had to check it out online and read your comments.
Alex Katchor
looks like grandmother nature at her grandest
Emma
hey wow thats amazing! I’m a surfer myself and would have been scared to bits! I’m not the big wave surfer. Congrats on getting up your courage!
Emma
Lozz
You fucking nutta
A weekend of toy buying... - Page 2 - ScoobyNet
[...] for size Real surfing, none of that poncing about off the coast , 20km out full set of pics here Biggest Barrel Of My Life!!! chasing chalk __________________ WRX-ing it down [...]
T
OMG.
Tim Bonython
Crazy Mark!! The question is how far can the bar be raised!!!!!!!!
james
Heavy!!
grover
faark!
cain gray
your a fucken nutter.unbelievable.I would rather take my chances with the sharks.!!!!!!
amelia
crazy! wish i could have seen it live
pooo
nice
jim sykes
mate you are mad got balls of steal well done stay afe
Ben Rennie
Ouch… thats nuts. Friggin Nuts. Friggin nuts.
freddy
man thats crazy!
cherdchay pospisit
very nice
james
fully sik
james
you must have balls the size of watermelons
Toby
thanks for sharing that … amazing to read the comments with the pictures. another world!
big dave
supercalafragilisticexpialodocious
Gabriel
Never handled a surfboard in my life, but I must say that you personify living life to the fullest. Best of luck in all your future endeavours!!!
Keoki Newroad
man! im from argentina, and i ve to say:
That you did, is love, obviously. but definitely, you’ve goy a big balls!!!
congratulations!
greetings
Mauricio
Oe broder tu si que tienes bolas weon.
Boris
Just Perfect!…
JP
great sequence
demian
.
GRANDE PAPÀ..!!! DEBE SER GENIAL ESA EXPERIENCIA. MAS GRANDE QUE LA DE SENTIR UNA PIJA EN EL ORTO..!! FELICIDADES.
ArieL (Arg)
Buenazo bro! mucho huevo y adrenalina para surfear esa olita!!! Te la ganaste!!!
Saludos Galera!
Nico Ugarte
Wow man those Photos aré amazing you must have really big balls. Congrats… Really unbelivable
max
big, men
bryne
Dude! Congratulations on winnning that one.
trucker julz
WOW!! you are crazy mark!
I love you
whooo hooo
Mike
Have not surfed for years but still get a great tingle watching those that do.
Mind blowing… well done and Cheers.
Miguel
How big was the wave ?
julio
es una olita de mierda
The Real Santa
I have just finished reading “Tim Winton”s” book “BREATH”.He talks about a giant wave that breaks over a reef a mile off the West Australian Coast.I imangin this is the sort of wave he talks about.You have brought the book alive with these photos,Well done.
The Real Santa
Great Photos
anna doyle
the slow cooked food is really working!!!!!!
well done.
soooooooooooooo proud of you.
xxanna
sarah doyle
I have the craziest boyfriend in the world! So proud of you baby!
Come home soon
Miss you
Lots of love from your number one fan!!!!
xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
Alejandro
Marvelous Mark!!
Scott
Ok, now that wave is seriosly epic. Mark you are the new big wave legend, move over RCJ!!!
Kenny Kratz
Simply amazing. Comments were fantastic. I hope for the sake of surfing you stay alive and get paid shitloads.You are a legend and a nutcase. Be safe.
Sonoman
Amazing pics bro! Hope I had the guts to do that some day
.
Grtz from Peru
S
Chris Evans
Big balls dood…. Awesome!!
desi ball.
i must say you have guts, but the rewards you must are out of this world. iam 65 been surfing a long time traveled a lot and i take my hat off too you guys your in a class of your own at the top….
phil
Was the one behind it bigger
mrt
FYI you’ve made the national newspapers in Peru
http://www.elcomercio.com.pe/noticia/307682/surfista-australiano-sale-ileso-ola-perfecta
Andy King
M&M ladies and gentleman your a genius this one makes your oniel poster look like a shorey I saw a single shot on rossy’s laptop in indo but the sequence is awesome takes talent to look that relaxed in a life or death situation much respect
King
mullet
nice photo retouch work. it’s amazing what one ca do with photoshop isn’t it.
halley
Man eso es inspiración..
Robin Pernice
Dude that is the sikest most knarley ride I HAVE ever seen. Man KUHDOS to you. Love the sequence and comments. Glad you made it!
Wendy
You made me feel I was in there with you for someone that films surfing and doesn’t surf thank you. your photo’s and comments was awsome. I’d love to film big waves like that but from the shore hahahaha cheers
Jimmy Dee
Pretty amazing but….like we used to say in the old days: “You should have seen it yesterday”.
asls
FAKE.
Film Prints or it didn’t happen.
me
Without video, looks photoshoped to me.
popurls.com // popular today
popurls.com // popular today…
story has entered the popular today section on popurls.com…
liencres
Eres el puto amo chaval, ni en liencres encontrarás una ola de esas. Apa esos cojones
kong
Iv seen bigger but still thats a really beautiful wave!
Ted B
Bra boy hellman ! Mark you’re a deadset leg-end !!!
Well done son ! Good description too. Congrats all round.
TheFamilyMan
I’ve never read or seen anything that made me wish I was a surfer so much as this.
No…not even “Point Break”.
Anon
Photoshop
Johnny Mack
Wow, that is like totally INSANE!
RT
http://www.anonymize.tk
Glow
Fantastic ride, awesome shots. But no love for your photographer in the story?
Biggest Barrel Of My Life!!! « chasing chalk – biggest one we’ve ever seen, too. | Pineappleope.com
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Bob "Little Wave" Jenkins
Awesome ride. That wave was THICK. I feel like I could have gone fishing in that wave as you were riding because I know there was some sea life in there.
I always wanted to Surf waves like that but im from the midwest. I usually body board the waves in lake michigan with my brother Milo. He’s actually my dog, but I call him my brother because we are really close. He’s a Great Dane who loves the water. We plan on going to Hawaii some day so surf North Shore but for now we just practice on the waves in Lake Michigan. I can really buts off some good 1-2 second rides sometimes. The feeling is intense although I never quite feel the wave take a breath.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Milo and I will show you some big lake wave action if you ever come to Chicago.
johnny5
Remember the undertoe at the beach? When you couldn’t escape it’s grasp and death was a near miss…. Crazy
Save your life with an
Electronic Cigarette
Rulex
Awesome! very nice description too.
I agree to some love for the photog too.
Sports & Recreation: Suicidal Wave Ride This is INSANE
[...] Hipwood) who was on the jet ski and he didnt even smile he just said this things huge.Source:http://chasingchalk.com/2009/06/26/biggest-barrel-of-my-life/ Posted by Andy B at [...]
Suicidal Wave Ride: This is INSANE! « The Sports Report
[...] Source:http://chasingchalk.com/2009/06/26/biggest-barrel-of-my-life/ [...]
Suicidal Wave Ride: This is INSANE! « The Sports Report
[...] Source:http://chasingchalk.com/2009/06/26/biggest-barrel-of-my-life/ Possibly related posts: (automatically generated)What to do with good ideasLed Zeppelin reunites! [...]
borntosurf
For all you non believers who think its photo shopped why dont you check this out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0I9cX74mcv4 or this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkKiys6__Zw&feature=PlayList&p=265533F6C5140C7E&index=9&playnext=2&playnext_from=PL or this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBi2i_ZKEZ8&feature=PlayList&p=D5724636204BB8A4&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=20
love your work mate wish i could do it!!
neil
anon
PHOTOSHOPED
why is there only blue in certain sections of the pic’s, please put full color photo’s or video and maybe we will believe it, until then don’t believe you………. looks Photoshoped
Bryan Dalli
Smash it up Marky..
Yeeewwwww!
Caspian
Yeah bruz,
Got that chalk dude coming.
That’s one meaty pit.
owwwwaaaahhhhhh!!!!!
Jamie
All you people who think this is photo shopped – GET A LIFE!! You are all jealous as you can’t catch a wave like that. Grow up and stop hanging shit on other people’s highs!!!
kurt
have a go Mark, you missed the floater section at the start and where was the big roundhouse cutty at the end?? na mate looked scary
rallentanda
Absolutely amazing and awesome!The surf and the sea is freedom…is everything. Off I go to watch Morning of the Earth again.Congratulations !
Ahu Taylor
GET OFF THE SHOULDER…
Banno
sick… so frickin sick it makes me sick. mrky mark you really do rule this shite
Suzanne
bucken hell man!!!!! that rocked. an achievement of a lifetime for sure, well done xoxo
ps: snaps to the photographer – amazing shots
Mike - e cigarette
wow man this is really serious. Some of the most amazing pics I’ve seen. You guys are true Pros.
E Cigarette
Thats really cool you can do that, i used to skateboard, but quit after spraining my ankle one too many times, i pretty much live in the dead center of the country so I’ve never even seen the ocean, nevermind tried surfing.
Trina Cooper
As a Newbie, I am always searching online for articles that can help me get further ahead. Thanks a million!
sandiegoripper
Mark,
It was a pleasure to read your thoughts moment-to-moment with each frame. I have charged some heavy stuff (in my mind) in Hawaii, Indo and Tahiti but the slabs that you hunt are another world of madness. My favorite thing in the entire world is to be inside the barrel so I can’t imagine the feeling that wave gave you. Do you feel as excited as you do with a really long barrel that is about 1/3rd the size? Meaning, do waves like this bring about too much fear in order to be happy when you end up on the shoulder? Or is it a different high where you are just so thankful you are alive? Maybe the fact you are addicted to hunting these slabs instead of camping in Indo for 12 second tubes that aren’t nearly as dangerous sorta answers the question for me. I think I need to purchase a SeaDoo ones of these days and search for some slabs myself…albeit much smaller.
So, when you fall on one of these waves are you down for a much shorter period of time due to the life jackets than you are when you charge big paddle waves? I would think that it is violent but the hold down isn’t as bad due to the life jackets. Let me know if I am wrong here.
I can’t wait to see what you charge next! I am so stoked that you got that barrel at Peahi. It helps put you on the map more. I hope you start blowing away guys like Garrett McNamara. You don’t have that ego issue, you just smile and charge. Love that! Hope the best for you mate!
Cheers!
Cameron
Biggest Slab Oakley Awards « chasing chalk
[...] This is the wave that won me the Biggest Slab award last night. Click here for the full sequence http://chasingchalk.com/2009/06/26/biggest-barrel-of-my-life/ Posted by mark Filed in Uncategorized Leave a Comment [...]
western australia flower
Truly Champion
western australia flower
wow man this is really serious. Some of the most amazing pics I’ve seen. You guys are true Pros.
network marketing
I am afraid of that activity. Absolutely amazing and awesome!
Max Furniture
Never handled a surfboard in my life, but I must say that you personify living life to the fullest. Congrats on getting up your courage!
Homesure Services
Just perfect..simply superb.i cant speak other to say you lucky and skillful.Great job!!
Eco friendly products
I can’t wait to see what you charge next! I am so stoked that you got that barrel at Peahi. It helps put you on the map more. I hope you start blowing away guys like Garrett McNamara. You don’t have that ego issue, you just smile and charge.
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When you fall on one of these waves are you down for a much shorter period of time due to the life jackets than you are when you charge big paddle waves.
woody
how do you sit down with nads that big?